The fashion designer/high street hybrid

If Gok Wan has proved anything it is that designer get up doesn’t have to cost the world. In his ‘Fashion Fix’, week in, week out, audiences were hard pushed in telling apart the designer labels from the high street imitations, demonstrating that there really isn’t much between the runway and the walkway.

And so 2010 has to be the year of collaborations; the union of designer and High Street fashion. Valentino has done it; Jean Paul Gautier and Barbara Hulanicki are doing it. It seems your stores are worth nothing nowadays without a designer in toe.

It was Kate Moss with her boutique range at Topshop that caused hundreds to flock to Oxford Street all eager to have their own little piece of the supermodel’s wardrobe. This partnership gave momentum to the designer/high street movement and since then it is very much becoming the norm. This year the style stakes have been dominated by H&M and their partnership with the French label, Lanvin. The collection manages to capture the extravagance of high fashion, giving us evening dresses, shirts and quirky t-shirts all at a reasonable price.

However, some pieces are better than others and only time will tell the success of this unusual alliance but certainly it has been a smart move for H&M, raising their profile.

Below pictured: Lovely Grey Tulle Dress From the H&M Lanvin Limited Edition Range, priced £199.99

The varying success of designer collections seems to depend on how their clothes translate under the constraints of mass production. Designers characterised by luxurious fabrics and high quality draping are less suited to high street fashion but those known for amazing prints and innovative designs fit right in.

Perhaps designer-high street partnerships are inevitable as store owners realise the power of the designer name for shifting clothes. There is no doubt people love to feel like part of the ‘IT’ crowd. Whether or not this is a dilution of would be exclusive fashion or a smart way of bringing variety to our stores is questionable. Are designer-high street merges merely producing poorly made versions of one-off collections and do these designers even have an influential input in the ranges themselves?

We will never know, but what can be said is the collections do make for imaginative fashion and more importantly in this economic climate, cheap purchases. The new Jil Sander range at Uniqlo is about quality basics and key items that won’t go out of fashion. Ultimately, for designer high street partnerships to work, it needs to be about more than just pulling in the designer addicts but genuinely producing clothes that will sell out because they appeal to the broader public. The future of this fashion hybrid remains unclear.



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“Government splits people up, culture brings them together” Public Enemy



Legendary American hip hop group, Public enemy, did an old school Q and A at Concrete in E1 last Sunday. Known for their rebellious lyrics the giants of rap are about to go on their 71st tour. Playing the o2 arena, Public Enemy is then flying out to South Africa aiming to bring rap music back to the continent and snatch the meaning of hiphop from MTV corporations.

Reformed with DJ Lord, who replaced Terminator X in 99 and bassist Brian Hardgroove the band claim to have more chemistry than ever before. One fan asked whether the introduction of musicians took away from Public Enemy's “anti-music message” but Chuck D dismissed this saying it allowed public enemy to “manipulate an array of sounds”. Hargroove backed up the rapper saying followers of Public Enemy, Herbie Hancock and Stan Clarke, prove that the group’s message isn’t one of anti music but one of musical change.

Public Enemy's newest recruit DJ Lord humbly admitted that when he first joined he was “star struck”, joking “I am watching the shows, when I am supposed to be in them”. The youngest member, praised for his ability to do an "after set", and then an "after, after set", is equally known for his work with seminal super bass collective TrillBass.

The staunchly political group criticised todays “lazy” artists, saying back in the day you had to give all in your performances and leave crowds “awe struck”. Furthermore, Chuck D slammed the drug culture that goes hand in hand with some modern music, arguing that people are more interested in getting intoxicated because the talent is “wack”. The American rapper, author and producer scorned Paris Hilton and other talent less ‘stars’ asking, “what the f**k do they do?”.

When asked what keeps them passionate, Chuck replied “travelling the world”. While Flav said God and the fans keep him making music. Public Enemy also admitted their message has changed with the ever changing music scene. Chuck D said “Everything has changed- you always have to figure out a different way to speak to people”.


Flav poses for the camera above and a picture with Chuck D below

The first time they met, Chuck D told fans he saw Flavor Flav, dressed in black with a black keyboard and pack of black cigarettes, and said, “you can't smoke up here”. From then Flav exclaims “it’s been a ride!”. Be on the look out in the near future for the eccentric star of 'Flavor of Love’s' La Flave spirits (cherry, berry, olive, sweet tea and bubblegum favoured vodka), as well as his champagnes, chicken house (FFC) and cabernet ‘collectabottles’. Is there nothing this man can’t produce?

Q and A, the band on stage

Having raised the most money for Sellaband, Public Enemy lives up to their political message. With Sellaband, artists retain complete ownership of the works created and have the flexibility to determine which incentives they will offer their fans, protecting the rights of the musician as an artist. At Concrete we were lucky enough to see the band perform some unfinished new material. It’s hard to believe the man who started Public Enemy, Chuck D, is fifty years old with the energy and freshness of the groups live performance these guys still have an awful lot to say, and they are certainly worth listening to.




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Street style along the Southbank



The Southbank was buzzing this weekend as Londoners strolled along the riverside to witness live music courtesy of the International Jazz Festival. The Tate Gallery has also drawn attention recently by homing 100 million porcelain sunflower seeds, an endeavour dreamt up by Chinese artist Weiwei. We took to the streets in search of true London street style...


Recreate the look of this stunning red head who was wistfully waiting outside the NFT. ASOS offer a cheap denim shearling jacket for a reasonable £36. Teamed with some striking red lipstick, a colourful maxi skirt and vintage handbag this girl looks effortlessly stylish.


Rocking a Mulberry bag we snapped this
girl walking towards Waterloo station. While not everyone is lucky enough to afford Mulberry why not buy a similar bag from River Island for £36.99.
For those that can afford it, Proenza also do a similar bag for a similarly large price tag.




Above top: This fur on fur outfit is perfect for the season. Check out a similar gorgeous shearling jacket for £390 on the ASOS website.If that will cause too much of a dent in your wallet then Portabello market has tonnes of cheap shearling coats.

Above bottom: These two guys stood out from the crowd with their unique style. The one on the left matches leather with a bright shirt and collar badge. While the guy on the right is working this months must have style statement, a moustache. Why not splash a bit of colour into your winter wardrobe and get a similar stripey tee from urban outfitters:










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‘The Chaser Years’: The photographic Art of Pete Williams.

Suitably held on Redchurch Street, a hub of London culture dedicated to art and live music, the stunning photography of Pete Williams will be displayed in the Maverick showrooms this week in, ‘The Chaser Years’. Synchronising with the International Jazz festival and in preparation for William’s major exhibition next summer these images are a joy to behold.

‘The Chaser Years’ features his work for staunchly independent music magazine ‘Straight No Chaser’. Williams remembers:

It was the late Eighties, and the job at hand was to photograph some of London's most exhilarating Jazz Dancers”.

Rather than shooting in a chaotic club Pete opts for grander settings, lifting art from one cultural context to another. His powerful and spiritually infused portraits, grounded in today’s global club culture feature the likes of, DJ Shadow, the Roots, Courtney Pine; as well as jazz legends Miles Davis and Nina Simone. Williams has even captured global figures such as the former Brasilian Minister for culture and Maskanda queen Busi Mhlongo.

Praised for his “Filmic eye” Pete Williams has an ability to genuinely engage with anyone he photographs. His command of the situation allows the subject to virtually forget the presence of the camera, and it shows. Pete is willing to improvise, to bend the rules and go with the moment.













Particularly good pieces include his portrait of Herbie Hancock. Williams writes “the previous day I got stuck into a furious argument with Herbie over a sound check photo misunderstanding”. Herbie and he later reconciled over a conversation about film maker Michelangelo Antonioni, with Hancock remarking, “Man that Italian dude was wild”. From that moment hostilities disappeared and the photo below is one of many exquisite pictures the artist took that day.


Another interesting story lies behind William’s portrait of Nina Simone. He writes, “The atmosphere is brooding, dark, unsettling and powerful... I turned on a couple of table lamps. She said “you may take my picture now”. Such spontaneity is lacking from today’s celebrity photographers, who are more like vultures than artists.

Some of the pictures were less effective with one of DJ Shadow in an alleyway after his gig. Pete wrote the location “just felt right”. However, the piece lacked the imagination of his more creative works.

The show was accompanied by a jazz performance from ‘Out There’ featuring Orphy Robinson, Otto Fischer and guests. ‘The Chaser Years’ is more than just a photography exhibition; it is an art exhibition that celebrates great music and culture, taken by one of the best photographers of his time.

Exhibition open 12th- 20th November ‘Maverick Showroom’



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Get Down to GLOW tonight, Concrete, Shoreditch 8pm-12


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NEW ERA: 90TH ANNIVERSARY- Bask
in the glory of the hat...


Yesterday in the spacious Dray Walk Gallery (off Brick Lane), budding young artists paid homage to the brand New Era at their 90th anniversary exhibition. The now infamous cap company challenged emerging artist across Europe to design hats, styled as their artistry should dictate including a brief spiel about their work.

Ranging from hats with clocks to hats with faces to hats that were decorated with other hats the exhibition merged fashion and art in aesthetic harmony. The attention to detail in some of the finished products was incredible- one artist actually used miniature trees, model people and fake grass. Although not entirely wearable (unless Peacocking) the hats were inspired and all great fashion grows from wacky extraverted seeds.

Particular favourites include a computer keyboard and screen cap, produced by twenty one year old Spanish artist Roser Moll Pascual. She said- “I wanted to base the design of the cap on a metaphor, making the cap become a computer. As well as a computer, ‘New era’ caps changed the market 90 years ago and they still do. Good inventions never end but evolve and improve.”




Pictured above: top- Craig Green and his mask and bottom, Pascual's computer screen hat.

Despite their being tonnes of awesome entries, the winning hat was the weird and wonderful Craig Green’s ‘mask of masculinity’. He chose to explore the role of men in Western society using materials that referenced ideas of currency, masculinity and nature (copper having connotations to English currency and class, whilst the use of suede brings in the natural element, along with wood in reference to hunting and nature). The artist said he wanted to look “at the outdoorsman; hunter gatherer and the boyhood fantasy of adventure”. Creating a cap that is as much about culture as it is about escapism, who would have thoughts hats could go so deep!

New Era is undecided as to whether a few of the designs will be manufactured but their cap exhibition proves a lot of exciting art is happening at the moment and projects like this are a great way to get it recognised- hats off to hats!




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Lauren, Make up artist


What are you wearing? - Shoes are from TKMAX(!!), leggings are american apparel, the shirt is from a boutique in New York, the scarf and jacket are from hennes and the bag is from a charity shop
Who is your favorite designer? - Vivienne Westwood
What's on the ipod right now? - A lot of 40's and 50's rock and roll


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LFW: Miscellaneous pictures!






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LFW: Krystof Strozyna

The Krystof Strozyna show began with a video of pixie like models appearing to be eating flowers in a dark twisted version of 'he loves me, he loves me not'. The actual catwalk was all bright lights and pretty pastels. Minimal hair and make up reflected the gorgeous understated glamour of the clothes. This spring/summer 2011 collection is the sixth one from the designer and showed progress, yet still in keeping with his trademark bodycon shapes. The graphic prints, draping and lace detailing updated the collection. The pieces would not have looked out of place on the red carpet yet could also be adapted for general wear. The static presentation at the end of the day was a lovely touch and a chance to see everything up close.





















The designer being interviewed:

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